No serviceable parts inside
28.02.2008 20:43
Last Thursday Andraž's laptop charger died - a LiteOn 19V 65W universal laptop power supply. He went and bought a new one the same day. And since I can't stand watching people throw away what could be perfectly good electronics I took it to have a closer look at it and maybe salvage any usable parts.
First there was a problem of how to get through the casing that is obviously designed to keep curious people out. Seriously, this thing is built like it is housing a nuclear reactor. It took quite a lot of sawing, heating and prying to get through an outer plastic and an inner aluminum shell.
After I got to the circuit the error was quite obvious. There was a bad contact on the board. Maybe it got loose because of a mechanical shock or maybe it was badly soldered in the first place. Anyway, before it finally blew itself off there was probably some arcing because tiny balls of solder were blown around the circuit and melted into the inner wall of the casing.
After properly soldering the blown connection and a bit of touching up some of the other suspicious points I connected it to the mains and it worked!
I did some more tests with the power supply under around 50% of it's maximum load and it held up perfectly (I didn't have a large enough resistor at hand to test it at full load). A quick calculation shows 160mΩ equivalent series resistance, which is quite nice. It will definitely come in handy in this or that electronics project.
So, thanks Andraž and I hope your new charger will serve you well.
Electronics quiz
29.01.2008 21:19
First, congratulations to the Cyberpipe computer museum team for the successful repair of the Macintosh SE. Sorry guys, this was just too good not to be posted ;)
Martin writes (this is a rough translation of the relevant part of the text): The cause of the malfunction turned out to be a blown 3.9μF bipolar electrolytic capacitor in the horizontal deflection circuit. The problem however was that you can't buy a 3.9μF capacitor, because it's not a popular value and shops don't have it in stock. So we had to replace it with a substitute - three capacitors connected in series. After the fix the computer worked, but the picture was stretched horizontally. Replacement capacitors held for a couple of minutes, then one of them blew up again.
You can't say for sure, what caused the replacement to blow, however you can say why the picture was stretched from the photo of the replacement capacitor circuit below (the original capacitor is on the left). Bonus points if you can prove it mathematically:
Old tube radios
17.01.2008 20:59
Some time ago I was writing about two big wooden boxes full of vacuum tubes. It turned out they were old radios that were brought by my dad's colleague to be repaired.
The first one was RIZ 634 UKV, the last radio made by Radioindustrija Zagreb that used tubes (designed in 1963 according to one source).
This one was pretty easy to fix. The schematic is actually available on the internet, but we didn't need it much. The radio required new electrolytic capacitors for the rectifier and some tuning of the RF circuitry (since someone obviously tried to fix the radio before us by turning all those little trimmer capacitors and coils because all seals on them were broken).
My dad wanted to preserve the authentic look of the circuitry, so he hid modern capacitors in the emptied case of the original capacitor.
The other radio is more of a mystery. It's obviously a lot older than RIZ 436. It only has a long and middle wave receiver and my dad puts its design around 1935 - 1940. A sticker on the back says "Philips AL 394 HU" while all text in the front is in Spanish, so I'm curious how it ended here. I couldn't find any info about it on the internet, so if you know anything about it, I would happy if you dropped me a mail.
Most of the passive components (capacitors and resistors) were heavily damaged because of age and we decided that it would ruin the historical value if we attempted to replace them with modern equivalents. So we basically just cleaned up the interior and took a few pictures.
Here's a nice example of simple instructions that anyone could follow. This is a picture of the back plate with pictograms showing what to plug into various connectors on that side. It seems that you should connect one wire to the water pipe (ground) and another to your clothes line (antenna).
If you're wondering, two connections on the right are for the gramophone and external speakers.
Day of week
13.01.2008 13:43
I've made a simple day-of-week display today. I hope it will help my grandmother and grandfather remember which day it is so they can take the correct medications.
It seems that complexity of scheduling various pills rises exponentially with age and I was surprised that I could find no electronic aides on the market that would help old people with that. It's simple to write the schedule on paper but you still need some kind of automatic calendar that doesn't depend on the user to advance the "today" indicator. I couldn't even find a clock that would display the day of the week in Slovene (not to mention in big readable letters).
So I made my own. Time was important so I made this as simple as possible (it took me a day and a half to put everything together): I used an old stopwatch and connected a simple detector circuit to it instead of the buzzer. The detector gives a clock impulse to a 7-state Johnson counter each time the alarm would sound which in turn advances the display for one day.
I power the clock from a 1.5V battery which removes the need for 12V to 1.5V DC-DC conversion and adds the benefit that the clock continues to run even if someone unplugs the device.
Looking at it now it reminds me of those scenes in Hollywood movies where they argue if someone should cut the red or the blue wire.
Vacuum tube collection
04.09.2007 22:33
Some time ago I found a box full of old vacuum tubes in my grandparent's cellar. Today I finally got to photograph and catalog them.
It looks like a loose collection of tubes gathered from TV (there are quite a lot PL 36 for example) and radio receivers. I'm told some of them were also used by my dad for high school and university projects.
I have not yet managed to identify all of them. Some markings on the glass became very fragile and can be easily destroyed by touching them so it's not surprising that a lot of them have disappeared with time. I can also only guess at their age and state. Some look like they haven't been used yet and at least one (RV2 P800 has "Wehrmacht" printed on it) appears to be from the second world war.
I would be very grateful if anyone can provide information that is missing below the pictures. Please drop me a mail. Thanks.
Sony RDR-HX710
13.07.2007 17:33
Here's some assorted information about Sony RDR-HX710 DVD/hard disk recorder (because I like spoiling business for people that are selling trivial information like this on various forums for 10$ apiece):
- To get into the service menu, turn the recorder off, simultaneously press REC, REC PAUSE and REC STOP on the front panel and while they are pressed turn the recorder back on with the ON/OFF button. You can then use the remote to navigate the service menus.
- MIP3E7MY integrated circuit in the power supply can be replaced with MIP3E3SMY without any obvious side-effects. This is however only based on experimentation. I couldn't find datasheets for the original chip, so this replacement may not work to specifications. YMMV (by the way, while this looks like a transistor it really contains complete power supply control electronics and a high-voltage power MOSFET).
- When removing the power supply from the case, be very careful and only touch it along the edges. When it's out, take a resistor and discharge all the big capacitors on it (even if you think those capacitors are already empty). Unless of course you would like to sport a couple of new burn marks on your hands. Fun fact: there are places on the circuit board for bleeder resistors, but they are empty. I guess marketing department won an argument there (this reminds me of a certain domestic computer).
- Hard disk is a normal 160 GB Seagate with IDE interface. No partitions and no easily recognizable video streams.
Old transistors
05.06.2007 14:08
Yesterday I found these transistors manufactured in former Yugoslavia while repairing an old EPROM programator:
BC212 equivalent in TO-92 package, from Ei Niš.
2N2907 equivalent in TO-18 package, from Radio industrija Zagreb.
Nothing special actually, except that I didn't know that they were making transistors at all.
Learned something
15.04.2007 13:40
A capacitor in such a sad state can still hold more than enough charge to burn out an ohm-meter.
Coming up next: repairing a Metex digital multimeter...
On a second thought, if I wouldn't destroy the instrument I would probably at some point touch the terminals with my hand and that could be a bit more serious.
CDR-3 heterodyne downconverter
14.04.2007 12:44
Here's the final form of my ultrasonic downconverter:
It features 30 - 100 kHz input frequency range and 15 kHz bandwidth. It's a fully analog design that uses heterodyning for frequency shifting (the left knob controls the frequency of a local oscillator which is then mixed with the signal from the sensor). Output port can be used with headphones or a small speaker.
It was completely designed with free software tools from the gEDA project (and OpenOffice.org for the stickers).
The piezoelectric ultrasonic sensor is detachable so different kinds can be used (for different sensitivity and directivity).
It works surprisingly well considering my problems with noise on the protoboard. The grounded metal case really makes a big difference with such a sensitive circuit.
After a couple of walks around the house I found that the most loud things in the ultrasound spectrum are compact fluorescent lamps and motion detectors in car alarms.
Switcher PCB design
08.04.2007 21:09
Here is an interesting circuit I came across today. It's from an older "Standard Charger" for Ericsson mobile phones (in other words, it can't be used on recent models). The circuit itself is a pretty standard flyback switching power supply (240V AC input, 5V DC output at 450mA), however the PCB layout has two interesting features:
- Designer used a "ground mecca". Connections from all elements to the ground on both high voltage (left) and low voltage (right) sides radiate from one point that is near a large electrolytic capacitor. This significantly reduces noise problems in the control circuitry (I had to use the same technique when I designed a switcher last year).
- There's a feature resembling a spark gap between the high and low voltage sides. I'm guessing it is some kind of a safety feature. On both sides it is connected to ground, so perhaps it makes sure that if a spark makes a galvanic connection between the high and low voltage sides it first connects both grounds. However I'm not sure what good that would be, since the "ground" on the high voltage side may be at 380V in reference to the earth (or the unsuspecting user) depending on how the charger was plugged in.
Update: after some research it looks like this spark gap may in fact be used to protect the circuit from user not vice versa. For example if someone touches one of the low voltage terminals of the charger (which I guess may be connected to a metal phone case), it may bring the low voltage side a couple of kilovolts higher than the high voltage side (which is connected to the earth through the mains). The resulting ESD might damage the transformer or the optocoupler. The spark gap ensures that the discharge instead happens harmlessly in the air.
Best PCB so far
06.04.2007 16:44
This is the printed circuit board for the ultrasonic down-converter I wrote about in January. Silk screen made with toner transfer came out particularly nice on this board.
I left the circuit board (with the paper stuck to it after ironing) in water over night. After peeling off the paper and drying the board there were still some white paper fibers visible. I found out that they can be easily removed with a soft pencil eraser. The result isn't perfect though and I still would trust this technique for etching, but it is more than good enough for the silk screen.
Savica FM receiver
16.03.2007 23:44
Savica was an old solid state AM and FM radio receiver made by Iskra some 40 years ago. Originally it had only a mono receiver for middle and short wave and VHF bands. Interestingly this one (from my uncle) was modified by my father to also receive stereo FM broadcasts. I hear that this modification was quite popular at the time when first Slovenian radio stations began to transmit in stereo and more modern receivers either weren't available on the market or were very expensive.
Savica was particularly suitable for such a modification because the original FM detector had enough bandwidth to receive the entire stereo signal (which is encoded above the normal 15kHz of the audio signal). This meant that the original circuit could be left mostly untouched, only the original mono audio amplifier was replaced by a stereo decoder and a pair of amplifiers.
Names of public middle wave broadcasts are permanently written on the front plate. Who needs RDS?
Most of the original audio-frequency electronics is at the back of this picture. The audio amplifier is built with discrete silicon and germanium transistors. Power supply consists of a couple of diodes (probably a half-wave rectifier) and a large silver capacitor on the left.
This is the custom-built stereo decoder using the RCA CA1310 chip. The original FM detector is in the metal box in the lower left corner.
Update: the metal box actually contains only the the radio-frequency part of the FM receiver. The detector is on the main circuit board on the first picture.
And here are the two audio amplifiers, one for each channel. The two large capacitors on the left died and had to be replaced. This was the only repair needed to bring this old machine back into service.
Minimalistic switcher
21.02.2007 11:38
Taking a bit of a break from old computers...
Here's an interesting step-down switching power supply I found in a car charger for one of the older Ericsson mobile phones.
It really has a bare minimum of components. If you take out the dual op-amp, which is there only for enhancing user experience (it changes the color of the LED if the charger is in use), you end up only with two transistors, a simple shunt regulator AN1431, a coil and a couple of other passive elements.
AN1431 is used as a comparator here. When the voltage between the REF and A pins drops below 2.5V, no current flows into K and IC1 switch is open. If on the other hand voltage on REF raises above 2.5V, this chip acts as a short circuit and IC1 closes.
So basically the output voltage is determined with the voltage divider R7, R8, R9 and R10 (8.4V in this case). R6 and R5 form a positive feed-back that gives some hysteresis to this comparator so that the switching frequency doesn't get too high.
Life's not just ones and zeros
23.01.2007 22:22
In analog electronics it's in fact mostly noise. Doubly so if there's a protoboard involved.
This the first working prototype of an ultrasonic to audio range heterodyne down-converter I was working on last week (I had some time for playing with this since I was waiting for the Galaksija motherboard to be manufactured).
I just hope that all the white noise I'm getting from it is in fact coming from bad connections between components and the protoboard and not from the opamps themselves.
Commodore 128 PSU
01.09.2006 17:23
Here are some photos of a Commodore 128 external power supply from Cyberpipe's computer museum.
This is an interesting design (schematics), because it first uses a transformer and RC rectifier to get cca. 20V DC and then a switching regulator to provide 5V DC for the computer.
From my experience most home computers at that time used a cheap linear regulator IC (e. g. 7805) instead of a switching regulator. Why exactly they chose a more expensive design isn't clear. With 2A of rated maximum current at 5V it would be possible to get the same result with a linear regulator and a large heat sink. Perhaps designers didn't want Commodore to heat up as much as their competition.
This power supply had a heavily damaged printed circuit board because the over-voltage protection shunt obviously overheated and caught fire. I don't know how exactly this could have happened, because the power supply has both a fuse and an over-current protection circuit.
A seriously bad capacitor. Probably damaged by the heat of the fire nearby (note the shape of rubber seal at the bottom).
This is the circuit with new capacitor and shunt installed.
