Lab power supply

26.02.2010 20:56

I've been wanting to design and build a new 50 W lab power supply for some time now. It has turned out to be one of those projects that you think will take a month tops and then the lack of time stretches it to half a year and counting.

The minimum requirements are 0 - 25 V and 2 A with an adjustable current limit. I've considered four approaches for such a design:

  • A plain linear regulator,
  • linear regulator combined with a transformer with multiple taps,
  • linear regulator with a thyristor pre-regulator and
  • switched-mode regulator.

These are pretty much sorted by ascending complexity and efficiency.

The power requirements are just barely within the reach of the first option. However that would require a big passive heat sink (I want to keep away as far away from unreliable fans as possible). Plus building a new device that would operate around 10 - 20% efficiency most of the time doesn't really feel right. So scratch that.

I spent quite a bit of time researching the second option. In fact, I have an almost completed design for it on the drawing board right now. It uses a two-tap transformer with a relay to switch between them - transformers with more taps aren't easy to find. The regulator part is roughly based on the 0-30 V power supply from Electronics lab.

Still, I'm not really happy with it. I have doubts about the longevity of the relay and worst-case heat dissipation is still uncomfortably high.

By the way, the original Electronics lab design is pretty broken in several ways and I strongly doubt that it meets its specifications - but that is perhaps a topic for another post.

I'm not going to even consider building a switcher for this purpose. It's noisy and has worse regulation characteristics than a linear design. Not really something I would want in a lab supply. Plus finding appropriate ferrite cores for switchers is always a pain.

So, right now I'm looking into a thyristor pre-regulator. There's a pretty good application note from Linear technology that has a basic circuit. It looks solid on paper and I'm going to give it a try tomorrow to see how it behaves in practice. If it works as advertised I'm more than prepared to go back to the drawing board with this.

Posted by Tomaž | Categories: Analog | Comments »

This time multimeter survived

23.11.2009 18:07

This is how Apple Time Capsule's power supply looks from the inside:

Apple Time Capsule power supply, component side

It's quite small for a 30 W switcher. The label says Flextronics P/N 614-0414 and it's rated at 5 V 3.0 A, 12 V 1.2 A.

Apple Time Capsule power supply, solder side

What isn't obvious from the picture is that whoever designed this decided to leave out bleeder resistors. Combine with some quality high voltage capacitors that can hold their charge since my last visit and plastic wrapping around the circuit that can't be removed in any trivial way and you got a very nasty little trap.

The supply is now obviously completely dead (better it than me I guess) - it's not showing any signs of life on the secondary side. I'm not sure if it's because of the short circuit through my body or if it was broken to start with. Although I think the second possibility is more likely. If the switcher was working the capacitors probably wouldn't stay charged that long.

The next step I guess is to see if the computer and the hard drive work if I connect them to another power supply. But that will have to wait. I think I had enough Apple for one day.

Posted by Tomaž | Categories: Analog | Comments »

Motor-generator set and TEMPEST

14.07.2009 22:18

A few days ago I read of another attempt at recognizing key presses by analyzing noise generated by the computer on the power line. That's another one to add to the list of so called TEMPEST attacks - ways to gather information via side channels without having physical access to the computer itself, for example via stray radio-frequency transmissions or signals leaking to power and other lines connected to the machine.

The general consensus seems to be that the best way to prevent any secrets from leaking out of your datacenter through power lines is to have a motor-generator set between your private and public power grids (basically you have a large electric motor on the public side powering a generator that powers the private side). The idea is that since power is transmitted via a mechanical shaft any electrical signals present on the private side would be lost.

Why exactly is that so? A motor turning a generator is a dynamic system just like an electronic filter (or the suspension system of your car for that matter). The basic mathematics that comes from system theory doesn't change with the implementation (whether it's electrical, mechanical or something more exotic). The only thing that matters in the end is the transfer function between the input signal on the private side and the output signal on the public side.

Motor-generator set diagram

Let's look at the simplest example: a DC motor connected to a voltage source that is powering a DC generator via a heavy shaft. The input signal, that is emissions on the private side, is modeled by the alternating component of the source voltage ui and the output signal on the public side is the generator's open-circuit voltage uo. This model is a bit different from reality where the source of the signal is on the generator side, but this way it's easier to understand and the conclusions hold for the other case as well.

Since there's no load in the generator, its torque on the shaft is 0 and the output voltage has a nice linear relationship with the angular velocity ωm of the shaft (in the ideal case):

u_o = k_g \omega_m

On the other side of the shaft, the electric motor provides again a linear relationship between its driving voltage, the torque M exerted on the shaft and the angular velocity of the shaft:

M = k_u u_i - k_\omega \omega_m

Plug this relationship into the rotational version of Newton's second law, and you get the following linear differential equation for angular velocity:

M = \alpha J
\dot{\omega}_m J + \omega_m k_\omega = k_u u_i

Where J is the total moment of inertia for the rotating part of the machine (shaft and rotors of motor and generator). Now do a Fourier transform:

(j\omega) \Omega_m J + \Omega_m k_\omega = k_u U_i
\Omega_m = U_i \frac{k_u}{k_\omega} \frac{1}{j \omega \frac{J}{k_\omega} + 1}

Add the simple linear relation for Uo and you get the final, idealized transfer function:

U_o = U_i \frac{k_g k_u}{k_\omega} \frac{1}{j \omega \frac{J}{k_\omega} + 1}

If you ignore the constants in that equation, you can see that this is an ordinary transfer function for a first order low-pass filter. It has a single pole (at J/kω), which means that the attenuation of the filter falls by 20 decibels each frequency decade.


This is a frequency characteristic you might get for example for a simple RC or LR filter. So why go through all the difficulties of having to maintain a mechanical machine in your basement?

The answer is clear when you consider that the cut-off frequency for such a mechanical beast can easily be in the order of millihertz (think about how long it can take for a large motor to ramp up). Add a flywheel to the shaft (increasing J) and you can push it down for another few of orders of magnitude. Useful signals you might want to eavesdrop start beyond the kilohertz range, so you're seeing at least 120 dB of attenuation - well beyond any chance of recovering the already weak original signal from thermal noise.

To make an electronic filter with this performance you would need some pretty large coils and capacitors. And also keep in mind that a large amount of DC power needs to pass through the filter with a little loss as possible, which makes any kind of an active filter a big problem. There are no op-amps that will power a datacenter from their outputs.

An additional problem with electronic filters in this role is also that when you're talking about this level of attenuation, it's hard to get it right. Large coils get problematic because of stray capacitances between the windings and so on. Large physical separation between the private and public sides is just about the only thing that reliably reduces cross-talk.

A mechanical system doesn't have these hard-to-predict channels and a rotating shaft provides a convenient way to separate electric parts as much as required.

Posted by Tomaž | Categories: Analog | Comments »

Weather machine

28.06.2009 21:16

Here's another piece of electronics I saved from being dumped in a landfill: it's a wireless temperature and humidity sensor from one of those home weather stations. My sister gave it to me after I expressed my interest in it, but unfortunately I was too late to save the broken base station with the receiver. Now I'm playing with the idea of building a new receiver from scratch.

On the outside the sensor has a couple of buttons for setting up its connection with the receiver, self-test and choosing temperature display in Celsius or Fahrenheit (Kelvin fans are left out in the cold). There's a small LCD display on the unit that shows the current sensor readings.

Weather station transmitter, top side

Top side

Weather station transmitter, bottom side

Bottom side

There are no markings of any kind that would identify the manufacturer. That could be intentional, guessing from the sloppy way it's soldered together. Looks like the cost of assembling one of these things together was the primary concern of the designers: there's a single IC in the middle that uses direct chip attachment. Everything is SMD except for a couple of through-hole components that appear to be soldered by hand - in fact, whoever did it forgot to solder one of the pins of the trimmer capacitor (so I'm wondering if the base station was actually working just fine). Battery, buttons and LCD display all connect to the PCB by just being pressed against it - connectors really must cost a fortune these days.

Here's a schematic of the RF part. It appears to be a classical case of a cheap transmitter in the 433 MHz band. Basically it's a tuned oscillator: you have an amplifier and two tuned resonant circuits on both sides. One is a R433A SAW resonator and the other is a LC circuit that can be tuned with the trimmer. Because of the resonance the feedback can be minimal. In this case just the parasitic capacitance in the transistor's base-collector junction (Cbc) appears to do the trick. The antenna is just a fancy trace on the circuit board. I'm guessing there's only a simple amplitude modulation going on: either the transmitter is on, or it's off. But I have yet to hook up an oscilloscope to the circuit the verify that.

Schematic of a 433 MHz weather station transmitter

I'm planning to build a simple super-regenerative receiver, reverse engineer the data protocol and hook it up to an Arduino or some similar microcontroller. I know I could probably get a receiver module already built, but I want to get my hands dirty and finally try working with some RF circuit designs.

What I found so far on the internet seems encouraging. There's a really nice document about super-regenerative receivers by Eddie Insam and the protocol for weather stations has been broken before.

Posted by Tomaž | Categories: Analog | Comments »

A cubic inch of Ethernet

10.06.2009 16:28

Back when I was a student I designed and built an UTP cable tester. It's a battery operated hand-held device that uses finite state machine (more exactly a Moore automaton implemented with ROM and some logic - no microcontrollers with unreliable software here) to control some simple analogue circuits that check for proper connections and polarity of pairs in a standard Ethernet cable.

It was designed from the start to have two separate parts that need to be connected on the opposite ends of the cable. One part plays an active role and has all the logic and the diagnostic lights, while the other is a simple passive terminator with a diode circuit.

At the start I implemented both in a single case for simplicity, but that meant that you had to be able to bring both ends of the cable into one spot. Since I'm planning to lay some cables in my new apartment in Ljubljana I went on and made a second, separate terminator so I will be able to test cables once they are already fixed on the walls.

UTP cable terminator, before closing the box

I didn't bother to make a circuit board. It's going to be sealed shut and filled with hot resin, so nobody will be able to see the rat's nest anyway.

UTP cable terminator, finished box

On the second though it would probably be better if I made a metal box that would provide some shielding. But I had this piece of plywood at hand and no conductive paint. It works this way just as well and it's not something that will be in continuous operation anyway.

UTP cable terminator, painted black

Finally I gave it a coat of black paint to match the metal box of the tester.

Posted by Tomaž | Categories: Analog | Comments »

Personal Mobile Radio

23.05.2009 13:30

I had this handheld PMR transceiver (i.e. "walkie-talkie") in my hands for a short while a couple of weeks ago. I took it apart out of curiosity and to see if there were any chances of making a general-purpose receiver for the 400 MHz band out of it.

Mega P PMR-X3

Except for Mega P on the front side and PMR X3 in the battery compartment it doesn't bear any other identifying marks. I didn't have a manual, but a search turned out an user's guide for Binatone Adventurer 100 which appears to be a very similar device.

Inside there is a single multi-layer circuit board attached to a small piezo speaker and powered by two AA batteries.

PMR-X3 circuit board, top

The front side has the LCD display, microphone and pads for 5 keys. There's an integrated circuit bonded directly to the PCB under the display, which I guess is the microcontroller that drives the display, keys and provides the user interface to the electronics on the other side. There's a tuning fork style quartz oscillator nearby, which generates the clock signal for it.

PMR-X3 circuit board, bottom

The back side has all the RF circuitry soldered under shielding covers. There's a AN6311FA integrated circuit in a 52-pin QFP hidden under the copper foil on the right. I couldn't find any more information on it, short of some other mentions of it in connection to PMR equipment. It's described as "IC ASIC" on a parts list for another transceiver, so I guess it's an application specific circuit, maybe taking care of modulation and squelch.

PMR works on 8 radio channels on the 446 MHz band (hence the 446 MHz SAW filter in the middle), which is legal to use in Europe without a license. The output power in the Binatone manual is specified as 0.5 W, which is the maximum ERP allowed. It uses narrow-band FM modulation (channel spacing is 12.5 kHz).

This particular transceiver also uses CTCSS, which gives you 38 subchannels for each of eight frequencies - you can only hear somebody if both of you have the same subchannel set. Interestingly this system doesn't provide any security: it's only the well-behaved receiver that filters out any transmissions that don't have a sub-tone of the correct frequency added to it.

The 21.250 MHz quartz on the top is most likely the local oscillator from which all other frequencies are derived via frequency dividers and PLLs. Divided by 1700 it's equal to the channel width. There's a trimmer capacitor on the other side for fine-tuning its frequency.

Posted by Tomaž | Categories: Analog | Comments »

Dynamic Bass Boost

04.04.2009 0:21

A while ago I was doing some fairly trivial repairs on a Philips portable radio/CD/cassette player. It had a sticker on it claiming that this particular product features something called Dynamic Bass Boost.

From the outside this means an extra switch, that when turned on, causes the music to sound better (well, different). It appears that this is just another marketing name for a filter that tries to compensate for the frequency response of the human ear (sometimes it's called Loudness, my Sony calls it Dynamic Sound Generator).

The idea is that the ear is less sensitive to low and high end of the spectrum and that the sensitivity varies with the volume. So to compensate you insert a filter into the audio amplifier with a transfer function that matches the inverted ear sensitivity function.

I was curious how exactly that filter is implemented, so I disassembled the radio a bit further than it was strictly necessary for repairs and had a look at the circuits. Judging by the patent application I was expecting something complicated, with active filters and such.

Well, it turned out that in practice it is a lot simpler than that:

Dynamic Bass Boost circuit

This little passive filter circuit is all there is behind that button. It's implemented on a small circuit board that's attached directly to the rotary logarithmic potentiometer for volume adjustment (R1 and R2 on the picture) and is duplicated for each channel. Input is marked Ui and output is Uo. The button merely shorts C2 to the ground.

Unfortunately, the capacitors and resistors didn't have any recognizable markings on them, so I wasn't able to simply read their values. Instead of measuring each component separately, I measured the circuit's frequency response using a signal generator with frequency sweep and a digital oscilloscope with a Fourier transform:

Measured frequency response of disabled DBB circuit

(DBB turned off)

Measured frequency response of enabled DBB circuit

(DBB turned on)

The potentiometer has a tap at around on third of its range. As you can see from the circuit, with volume between zero and the tap position the shape of the transfer function is constant while at higher volume settings the transfer function gradually flattens out (compare that with the equal-loudness contours - the curves are flatter at higher volumes).

The measurements above were done with the volume knob near the tap, so that the filter was most effective.

Interestingly, the circuit attenuates lower frequencies even when it's "turned off". I wonder if this is intentional, to make the difference in sound more noticeable when you turn it on.

From the viewpoint of circuit analysis, it's pretty complicated to calculate the transfer function analytically without any simplifications. However if you assert that responses of the two capacitors are independent, you get a Bode plot with two poles and two zeros:

\omega_{p1} = \frac{1}{(R_1\|R_2 + R_3) \cdot C_3}
\omega_{z1} = \frac{1}{R_3 \cdot C_3}
\omega_{z2} = \frac{1}{R_1 \cdot C_1}
\omega_{p2} = \frac{1}{R_1\|R_2\|R_3 \cdot C_1}

The first pole and first zero are responsible for the decreased attenuation at the lower frequency range (they disappear when the switch shorts C3), while the second pole and the second zero result in the steady slope towards higher frequencies.

Here's the simulated filter attenuation versus frequency, this time in the more familiar logarithmic scale. I chose the values of the components so that the shape roughly matches the one I measured on the actual circuit (these are also the values written at the schematic above)

Simulated frequency response of DBB circuit
Posted by Tomaž | Categories: Analog | Comments »

On Pleo touch sensors

08.11.2008 20:26

I've been asked a couple of times how Pleo knows when you're petting it. Here's what I've learned about his sense of touch when I was taking Zemanta's Piki apart.

Ugobe explains Pleo's features

Image by Ugobe

The official story Ugobe tells is that Pleo is equipped with several sensors under its skin that respond to human touch. They tell you approximate locations, like under the chin, on the back and legs, but how they work is left to your imagination.

Pleo's shoulder capacitive sensor

Pleo's shoulder touch sensor

While Pleo is in all respects an impressive technical achievement the first look at these sensors reveal that he's not exactly Commander Data. As you can see they are composed simply of adhesive aluminum foil that is fixed on strategic spots on Pleo's plastic skeleton. The curious fact that reveals that there is nothing magical about this patch is that there is only one wire going to it from the circuit board inside. Even the simplest switch would need at least two wires. I guess bionic skin will stay the domain of science fiction for a little while longer.

So how does Pleo sense your hand with a simple piece of aluminum? Well, Ugobe's description isn't entirely accurate. These sensors merely detect proximity of objects, not touch or pressure. Exceptions are of course four sensors on Pleo's feet, but those are ordinary mechanical switches and require no explanation.

Pleo's capacitive proximity sensors

A patch of foil forms a sensor electrode and a control circuit is connected between it and the circuit's ground plane. This circuit continuously measures capacitance of the electrode: it brings the electrode to a known potential respective to the ground and measures the amount of charge that has accumulated on it.

Since you are relatively conductive, you significantly alter the electric field in you vicinity. When you move your hand close to the electrode, you form a shorter, better conducting path to the ground plane (compared to the air that was previously occupying your place). The floor can also help forming this path, if it's conductive enough. Since the path is shorter it takes more accumulated charge on the sensor plate to bring it to the reference potential. The control circuit can detect this change. With some careful signal processing it can also determine when your hand is close enough to be touching the skin and that a trigger signal to the Pleo's microcontroller should be sent.

The typical electrode capacitance here is in the order of 10-12 farads, so even an object with the resistance in the order gigaohms will appear as conductive to the sensor that is doing hundreds of measurements per second.

On the other hand Pleo's rubber skin is a good dielectric and the electric field passes through it without much attenuation. In fact, this kind of sensors work through most isolating materials, like glass, plastic or ceramic.

If you think about it in another way, this kind of sense is in some way superior to touch. Pleo in fact senses the geometry and electric properties of the space around it, by probing it by electric field at a distance. It's doubtful that this analogue information about capacitance from different sensors gets to microcontrollers though, which probably receive only digital on/off signals from sensor controller ICs.

The question that remains in the end is how exactly Pleo measures electrode capacitance. I haven't had the opportunity to put an oscilloscope probe to the sensor electrode of a working Pleo (Piki is still in very bad shape and I don't dare to power him up), so I'm left to guessing.

It most probably uses the charge transfer method, where the unknown capacitance of the electrode is compared to a known capacitance. There are cheap and reliable ICs that can do that, like the QT110. Another possibility is a simple and less accurate R-C circuit and measuring of the time constant, which can be done with a microcontroller itself and very little extra hardware.

Posted by Tomaž | Categories: Analog | Comments »

Capacitor charging for dummies

03.10.2008 19:56

Say you want to charge an empty capacitor to a certain voltage. It's pretty simple to determine analytically the values of all variables versus time in such a system and RC circuits are usually the subject of high-school physics. However even so there is an interesting point to a charging capacitor that is often omitted from the text books.

If you are using a constant voltage source (like in majority of practical cases), any circuit that charges a capacitor can be generalized into the following circuit:

Charging a capacitor through a resistive element

Ucc is the voltage of the source and C is capacitor capacitance. f(u) can be an arbitrary function, provided it describes a passive resistive element (in this case specifically f(u) >= 0 for u > 0 and f(0) = 0).

For example, an ideal resistor has:

f(u) = \frac{u}{R}

And a current source made with transistors can be approximated with:

f(u) = I_c

As you probably know, the energy of a capacitor with capacitance C charged to voltage Ucc is equal to:

W_{capacitor} = \frac{C \cdot U_{cc}^2}{2}

While the work done by the voltage source when charging it is equal to:

W_{source} = \int_0^{\infty} U_{cc} \cdot i \cdot dt = U_{cc} \cdot \int_0^{\infty} i \cdot dt = U_{cc} \cdot Q
W_{source} = U_{cc} \cdot U_{cc} \cdot C = C \cdot U_{cc}^2

You can see here that no matter what the f(u) function of the element in the circuit is, only half of the work done by the source goes to increasing the capacitor energy. The other half is dissipated as heat in the resistor, transistor or any other element connected between the source and the capacitor.

Why is that? One way to understand it is to consider how a small unit of charge gets transferred from the source at potential Ucc to the positive capacitor plate with potential of:

u_c = \frac{q_c}{C}

The very first charge unit has to fall into a potential well of a discharged capacitor (qc = 0). It looses potential energy by doing that and this energy lost must be converted to heat in the resistive element. Following charge units have to gradually loose less and less potential until the capacitor is fully charged and potentials on both sides are equal. This process doesn't depend on the resistance offered to the charge units by the material between the two potentials.

The obvious question here is what happens if you connect an empty capacitor directly to the voltage source? Well, that is a circuit that makes as much sense in circuit theory as statement 1 = 0 in mathematics. Generalizations that permit the use of circuit theory do not allow such an event and indeed it is also impossible in practice, since every capacitor has some series resistance. Even introducing mathematical tricks like the Dirac delta function doesn't give you a consistent answer.

So what if you're environmentally conscious and don't want to waste half of the energy on each charge cycle (or more probably, you're transferring so much energy over that capacitor that it becomes unpractical to cool surrounding elements)?

Since using only resistive elements is obviously out of the question, the circuit must use at least one additional reactive element, specifically a coil. For example like this:

Charging a capacitor through a coil

To start charging the capacitor, you close the switch. The circuit then forms a LC circuit that begins to oscillate. When the voltage on the capacitor reaches approximately half of the source voltage, you open the switch. The energy stored in the magnetic field in the coil will then charge the capacitor over the second half of the cycle and the diode will prevent the capacitor from discharging again through the coil. Here's how such a charge cycle looks like in a SPICE simulation:

Charging a capacitor through a coil

Upper trace: voltage on the diode. Lower trace: capacitor voltage Uc

Still, some energy is lost on the switch resistance and the diode, but this time that portion depends on variables that are at least to some extent under your control (i.e. "on" resistance of the switch, Uf of the diode). How to calculate that is left as an exercise for the reader.

In conclusion, you see that although ideal capacitors are advertised as lossless elements, charging them includes a hefty tax unless you're doing it in the right way. With low-power devices this doesn't matter much, but when you're pushing some non-trivial power through the capacitor it becomes a problem.

This is the reason why all practical switching DC-to-DC converters with a significant power output use coils as the reactive element whose terminals are switched. It's the consequence of the fact that the sources of power we use are closer to constant voltage than constant current.

In fact, the circuit above is identical to the buck converter. Note however, that if you're using it only for charging an initially empty capacitor, the final voltage can be higher than Ucc and depends on when you turn off the switch.

Posted by Tomaž | Categories: Analog | Comments »

Dino charger

24.09.2008 20:06

Last time I took a break from the surgical work and had a peek into the only part of Pleo that can be accessed without using a scalpel.

Pleo charger PCB

This is how the green egg charger looks like inside. It's more complicated than I thought. Actually I was expecting to see nothing at all inside the egg shell. It's not unusual for a simple 1/10 C charger to be completely hidden inside the power brick. On the other hand this appears to be a bit more complicated than that.

It's fully analog. J2 looks like a diagnostics connector. In the upper right is an 33340 NiMH fast charge controller which is most likely the central point of this circuit (Pleo uses a 7.2 V 2200 mAh NiMH battery pack). The rest looks like a switching constant current regulator.

The conclusion is that as far as I can see this charger would run fine on any plain 12V power supply and doesn't need the exact power brick that came with it (which is nice, since the original runs on 110 V and requires a bulky transformer to operate on this side of the Atlantic). Be warned though that I haven't tried that yet.

Posted by Tomaž | Categories: Analog | Comments »

Glassworks

13.09.2008 21:13

I needed a small glass bulb for some little project of mine. Since I couldn't find one that would fit my requirements I bought a bag of 20 mm test tubes at the local lab supply store and started looking around the internet for glass cutting how-tos.

It turns out there is quite a lot of information about that floating around. There are also several demonstrations on YouTube

Here are my comments on using these techniques for cutting a 60 mm piece of a 200 mm long test tube (diameter 20 mm, I guess it's borosilicate glass).

  • Make a small scratch, then bend and pull until it snaps: Doesn't snap, possibly because the short end doesn't allow you to stress the tube enough. It turns out test tubes of this sort are much harder to break than I previously thought.
  • Make a small scratch and apply a red-hot piece of iron on it: Tube breaks, but the break is pretty random and doesn't follow the circumference of the tube evenly. Pretty useless for my purposes.
  • Make a scratch all the way around the tube and heat it with a hot wire: After some practice this one turned out to work perfectly. If you position the wire exactly on the scratch, the tube will break in a clean line.
20mm test tube cut in half

So yes, it's perfectly possible to do this in the home workshop. I didn't use any special equipment (even the scratches were made with a tungsten carbide cutting tool for use in a metal lathe). Against my expectations I was even able to anneal the sharp corners with a cheap propane burner.

Posted by Tomaž | Categories: Analog | Comments »

Flashy thingy, part 1

06.09.2008 11:08

A couple of months ago I noticed that the local DIY store sells "flashing lightbulbs" at some discount price (around 4€ if I recall correctly). Since it looked like they could contain a xenon flash lamp I bought one just so that I could play a bit with this interesting component. Recently I got some time to actually take it apart and have some fun with it.

FL010K Flashlight

What they are selling as a lightbulb is actually a small electronic circuit that drives a lamp from AC line voltage from a standard E27 socket (similar to common compact fluorescent lights). Here's the circuit from this particular lamp:

Circuit for FL010K flashlight

A xenon flash lamp is a gas-discharge lamp that can make intense pulses of visible light. This achieved by sending a large pulse of current through the xenon gas. The current, which flows between two main electrodes (A and C on the diagram above) excites xenon atoms which then emit visible light as they return to their ground state. The power source for the burst is usually a charged high-voltage capacitor, which also helps defining the energy of each flash of light.

It would be hard to charge the capacitor to the breakdown voltage, where the lamp would start conducting on its own. So the gas is initially ionized by applying a high voltage spike on a third electrode (B) that is outside the isolating glass bulb. Although this doesn't send any current through the gas itself it creates an electric field around the main electrodes that is strong enough to strip xenon atoms of some of its electrons. This initial ionization then provides a starting point for the main discharge.

So how does this particular circuit achieve that? The main capacitor C2 is charged directly from the mains voltage through a rectifier D1. Together with it a smaller starter capacitor C3 is also charged. After the voltage on it reaches a threshold voltage or around 70V, a small neon lamp NL ignites. This sends current into thyristor Q1's gate, which switches it on. A current pulse travels through the primary winding of a small transformer T1, which produces a voltage spike on the open-circuit secondary. This spike ignites the main lamp, through which the main capacitor discharges, making the flash of light.

After the cycle both capacitors start to charge again and the whole cycle repeats approximately once per second. How this period is calculated is left as an exercise for the reader.

That's it for now. Next time: how to modify this circuit to do something more interesting.

Posted by Tomaž | Categories: Analog | Comments »

No serviceable parts inside

28.02.2008 20:43

Last Thursday Andraž's laptop charger died - a LiteOn 19V 65W universal laptop power supply. He went and bought a new one the same day. And since I can't stand watching people throw away what could be perfectly good electronics I took it to have a closer look at it and maybe salvage any usable parts.

Hard outer shell with a surprise inside

First there was a problem of how to get through the casing that is obviously designed to keep curious people out. Seriously, this thing is built like it is housing a nuclear reactor. It took quite a lot of sawing, heating and prying to get through an outer plastic and an inner aluminum shell.

Level 1 passed

After I got to the circuit the error was quite obvious. There was a bad contact on the board. Maybe it got loose because of a mechanical shock or maybe it was badly soldered in the first place. Anyway, before it finally blew itself off there was probably some arcing because tiny balls of solder were blown around the circuit and melted into the inner wall of the casing.

Can you spot the problem?

After properly soldering the blown connection and a bit of touching up some of the other suspicious points I connected it to the mains and it worked!

Yay! It works

I did some more tests with the power supply under around 50% of it's maximum load and it held up perfectly (I didn't have a large enough resistor at hand to test it at full load). A quick calculation shows 160mΩ equivalent series resistance, which is quite nice. It will definitely come in handy in this or that electronics project.

So, thanks Andraž and I hope your new charger will serve you well.

Posted by Tomaž | Categories: Analog | Comments »

Electronics quiz

29.01.2008 21:19

First, congratulations to the Cyberpipe computer museum team for the successful repair of the Macintosh SE. Sorry guys, this was just too good not to be posted ;)

Martin writes (this is a rough translation of the relevant part of the text): The cause of the malfunction turned out to be a blown 3.9μF bipolar electrolytic capacitor in the horizontal deflection circuit. The problem however was that you can't buy a 3.9μF capacitor, because it's not a popular value and shops don't have it in stock. So we had to replace it with a substitute - three capacitors connected in series. After the fix the computer worked, but the picture was stretched horizontally. Replacement capacitors held for a couple of minutes, then one of them blew up again.

You can't say for sure, what caused the replacement to blow, however you can say why the picture was stretched from the photo of the replacement capacitor circuit below (the original capacitor is on the left). Bonus points if you can prove it mathematically:

Original capacitor on
the left, replacement on the right. What is wrong in this picture?
Posted by Tomaž | Categories: Analog | Comments »

Old tube radios

17.01.2008 20:59

Some time ago I was writing about two big wooden boxes full of vacuum tubes. It turned out they were old radios that were brought by my dad's colleague to be repaired.

The first one was RIZ 634 UKV, the last radio made by Radioindustrija Zagreb that used tubes (designed in 1963 according to one source).

This one was pretty easy to fix. The schematic is actually available on the internet, but we didn't need it much. The radio required new electrolytic capacitors for the rectifier and some tuning of the RF circuitry (since someone obviously tried to fix the radio before us by turning all those little trimmer capacitors and coils because all seals on them were broken).


My dad wanted to preserve the authentic look of the circuitry, so he hid modern capacitors in the emptied case of the original capacitor.

The other radio is more of a mystery. It's obviously a lot older than RIZ 436. It only has a long and middle wave receiver and my dad puts its design around 1935 - 1940. A sticker on the back says "Philips AL 394 HU" while all text in the front is in Spanish, so I'm curious how it ended here. I couldn't find any info about it on the internet, so if you know anything about it, I would happy if you dropped me a mail.



Most of the passive components (capacitors and resistors) were heavily damaged because of age and we decided that it would ruin the historical value if we attempted to replace them with modern equivalents. So we basically just cleaned up the interior and took a few pictures.




Here's a nice example of simple instructions that anyone could follow. This is a picture of the back plate with pictograms showing what to plug into various connectors on that side. It seems that you should connect one wire to the water pipe (ground) and another to your clothes line (antenna).

If you're wondering, two connections on the right are for the gramophone and external speakers.

Posted by Tomaž | Categories: Analog | Comments »